Minnie Mouse shoes, balloons and 8-bit patterns
Loewe SS23 was a story of provocative contradictions. In true JW Anderson fashion, anthuriums collided with 8-bit patterns, while angular draperies, floor-sweeping sleeves and constricted silhouettes created erotic tension throughout.. After the show, under the guise of a towering vinyl flower that bloomed at the base of the catwalk, our editor Mel Ottenberg sat down with Arca, Honey Dijon and Hari Nef to speak poetically about the collection.—CAITLIN CARÊME
HONEY DIJON, ARCA
MEL OTTENBERG: Ok, international doll conference part 75, I’m here with Honey Dijon and Arca.
HONEY DIJON: The mythical Arca.
ARCA: The legendary honey.
OTTENBERG: Arca says we met at a rooftop party with Bjork and Shayne [Oliver] but that’s not true, we’re just meeting in person right now.
ARCA: If you want to save face, I’ll tell you that we’ve never met before.
OTTENBERG: It’s a pleasure to meet you. [Laughs]
DIJON: We can always create new fantasies.
OTTENBERG: You are all living the fantasy.
DIJON: Can I ask you to take a picture of us?
OTTENBERG: Yes, of course, but wait. This is a review of the show.
DIJON: Oooh, work!
ARCA: It was fucking fabulous.
DIJON: It’s eggs. Dozens at all levels. I want those balloon pumps. These Minnie Mouse shoes.
ARCA: Fabulosidad regia, me encanto. Estaba divinamente orchestrated. Sexy. Deconstructed, modern.
ARCA: The dolls.
OTTENBERG: The simple sweater dress, there’s something for everyone and I’m screwed.
MEL OTTENBERG: OK, International Doll Conference, part 86. Because I have all the best dolls in the world.
HARI NEF: The only dolls. Loewe dolls.
OTTENBERG: Loewe dolls. Who were Arca, Honey Dijon and Hari Nef. I’m not talking to anyone else, honey. This is closed, you are the last notice. You will be the best critic. What do you have to say?
NEF: I have to say, this collection got me warm in the weird valley, baby. The space between the flesh and the digital, the artificial and the organic. A hermaphroditic flower springing from the white floor of the gallery, the sound of footsteps out of step with the footsteps of the models. A woman’s curve made angular. I was a little scared. But then I was thrilled because I’m always looking for skirts and dresses that are actually that short. It’s shockingly short, coochie revealing, and now I know where to find them.
NEF: So I’m happy. But I’m also a little scared.
OTTENBERG: I’m just relieved that my morals and values are here. I remember what I really like about the track. I just go with that. I am not afraid. In fact, I think fashion is really interesting right now. The idea that fashion sucks is something I’m not so interested in.
NEF: Who said fashion sucks right now?
OTTENBERG: Someone who is wrong. It’s like… well that dress you’re wearing, bitch. Look at this fucking thing.
NEF: These are real tennis balls for doggies and soccer balls.
OTTENBERG: Oh, wow.
NEF: Just covered with fabric.
OTTENBERG: Oh wow. OK.
NEF: It’s the off-season collection that they don’t even publish on Vogue.com. Honey, you don’t know where that came from. Because it’s only internally, mom.
OTTENBERG: Love, okay. [Laughs]